I found this lovely pattern on Ravelry and could not resist the urge to make one! It is a beautiful shawl – romantic and fun! The texture alone was enough to make me fall in love with it and it would be a fabulous showpiece in any wardrobe! I had a great time making it for one of my friends as a mommy-to-be gift.
Want to make your own? Here’s how!
You can find the pattern for this gorgeous shawl on Ravelry here or you can go directly to the pattern on Johanna’s blog here. It is very well written and easy to follow! The best advice I can give you is to count every row at the peak or half way point. The stitch counts are provided for this on the first round of the pattern and I had to pull out several rows because I did not count and missed a stitch. It’s so much easier to just count than to re-do a half hour’s work!
I used about 1350 yards (3 1/2 cakes) of Caron Cakes in strawberry trifle for my shawl (including the tassels). I also chose to use a 6 mm hook (the recommended hook size for the yarn is 5 mm) because when I started I felt the stitches were coming out too tight. There is not a recommended gauge provided for this shawl so play with it a little if your stitches appear tight/loose to you. You want it to drape without being too loose so that you lose the stitch definition.
I did the repeat section three times (4 times total if you count the first time through) and I will provide my stitch counts for the repeats below for a reference. My shawl ended up being quite large! The friend I made it for is very tall so it will work well for her but two repeats is probably a good size for someone who is not on the tall side!
My second lost in time shawl was made with Yarn Bee Soft Secret yarn in haystack, honey, french lilac, ivory and rosebud. For this shawl I only did 2 repeats and I alternated the colors at every row. This meant a monumental weaving-in-ends effort at the end but the final look is gorgeous!
*Due to the overwhelming number of email I have gotten about this pattern, I will no longer be responding to inquiries about it. This is not my pattern. I have provided what information I can to assist anyone making a Lost In Time Shawl and I hope the information in this post helps but if you need further assistance, please contact Johanna Lindahl (the pattern designer). Good luck!*
Questions I’ve Been Asked Bout This Pattern:
Q: I wondered if I could poss pick your brains about Row23 repeats, please? I seem to keep getting 1 more 2chsp than I should have. If row 22 finishes with 20dc (30, 40 etc) each side, and row 23 calls for (1dc+2chsp+1dc) in each dc, I’m therefore getting 20 (30, 40..) 2chsp….not 19 (29, 39…) as I should? Did you skip the 1st dc from the finishing (1dc+1chsp+1dc) of row22?
A: I can think of 3 things that could be tricky in counting the ch2 spaces for this row: 1) where you are placing your first (1dc + 2ch + 1dc) – make sure it is going in the second dc (not the one your chain came up from). 2) Make sure that you are not adding or counting an extra ch2 space between the last (1dc + 2ch + 1dc) and the dc in the point of the shawl (aka the 1dc + 2ch + 1dc from middle line of instructions for row 23). 3) You don’t count the ch2 space from the 1dc + 2ch + 1dc from the point of the pattern (aka the middle row of instructions for row 23) when you count the ch2 spaces – it exists as an independent ch2 space.
Q: I’ve gone over row 22 three times and all three times I’ve ended with 16 popcorns, but the pattern says I’m to have 18. But how can there be 18 popcorns and 20 DCs (for 38 total stitches) when the previous row ends with 36 stitches? It says at the beginning of the pattern that the ch 1 that start each row of SCs don’t count as stitches.
A: I’m not exactly sure what could be causing you trouble with the pattern but I’ll go through the things that occur to me looking at rows 21 and 22… You mention that you don’t know how the stitch count goes up to 38 for row 22, the two additional stitches come from the two dc that go into the ch2 space at the point of the shawl. Most of the rows in this shawl grow in the first stitch of the row as well as the ch2 space but this one only grows in the ch2 space. You also mentioned that the ch1 at the beginning of row 21 doesn’t count as a stitch but keep in mind that the first sc does count so you still have a working stitch in that same space as the ch1 (I hope that makes sense!).
Q: I can’t seem to get row 15 started. I counted and made sure I had my 6 popcorns and 45 dc per side, but this has me a little frustrated.
A: The only thing I can think of on row 15 just reviewing the pattern is to make sure you’re putting your stitches in the correct places and the tricky one there could be the popcorn: the top of the popcorn is the wide loop you made when you pulled all of the popcorn stitches together into a single stitch. The pattern begins with a ch4 and dc in the first stitch space which is really a dc + ch1 + dc and then the repeat for this row is to chain 1, skip a stitch, place your next stitch according to the pattern directions. So this entire row essentially ends up looking like little boxes because there is a ch1 space between every dc/fpdc stitch. If that doesn’t help, you’ll have to be more specific about what you’re having trouble with.
Q: For some reason my bubble stitch is on the back side of the shawl. Any suggestions?
A: You should be able to push the stitch so that it pops out on the correct side. You can also adjust the way you insert the hook and pull up the last loop when you bunch all the stitches together to make them pop out. Play around with it and make sure the stitches are naturally going to pop forward when you pull through the last time. I can see it in my head but I don’t really know how to describe it!
Q: What is fp dc and bp dc?
A: The abbreviations fp dc and bp dc are for “front post double crochet” and “back post double crochet”. You can look for videos showing how to do those stitches on YouTube by searching for those terms but essentially you are crocheting around the post of the stitch rather than into the top of the stitch as you normally would. This makes the textured look you can see in the picture next to row 13.
Repeat stitch counts:
Row 15 (increase by 20 per repeat)
1st repeat: 48 dc/47 1-ch spaces per side
2nd repeat: 68 dc/67 1-ch spaces per side
3rd repeat: 88 dc/87 1-ch spaces per side
Row 16 (increase by 20 per repeat)
1st repeat: 49 sc/48 1-ch spaces per side
2nd repeat: 69 sc/68 1-ch spaces per side
3rd repeat: 89 sc/88 1-ch spaces per side
Row 17 (increase by 20 per repeat)
1st repeat: 52 dc/49 1-ch spaces per side
2nd repeat: 72 dc/69 1-ch spaces per side
3rd repeat: 92 dc/89 1-ch spaces per side
Row 18 (increase by 20 per repeat)
1st repeat: 53 sc/50 ch-1 spaces per side
2nd repeat: 73 sc/70 ch-1 spaces per side
3rd repeat: 93 sc/90 ch-1 spaces per side
Row 19 (increase by 20 per repeat)
1st repeat: 54 dc/53 1-ch spaces per side
2nd repeat: 74 dc/73 1-ch spaces per side
3rd repeat: 94 dc/ 93 1-ch spaces per side
Row 20 (increase by 20 per repeat)
1st repeat: 55 sc/54 1-ch spaces per side
2nd repeat: 75 sc/74 1-ch spaces per side
3rd repeat: 95 sc/94 1-ch spaces per side
Row 21 (increase by 20 per repeat)
1st repeat: 56 sc/55 1-ch spaces per side
2nd repeat: 76 sc/75 1-ch spaces per side
3rd repeat: 96 sc/95 1-ch spaces per side
Row 22 (increase by 10 per repeat)
1st repeat: 28 popcorn/30 dc per side
2nd repeat: 38 popcorn/40 dc per side
3rd repeat: 48 popcorn/50 dc per side
Row 23 (increase by 10 per repeat)
1st repeat: 1 1-ch space/29 2-ch spaces per side
2nd repeat: 1 1-ch space/39 2-ch spaces per side
3rd repeat: 1 1-ch space/49 2-ch spaces per side
Row 24 (increase by 5 per repeat)
1st repeat: 15 groups of 8 dc per side
2nd repeat: 20 groups of 8 dc per side
3rd repeat: 25 groups of 8 dc per side
Row 25 (increase by 40 per repeat)
1st repeat: 127 dc per side
2nd repeat: 167 dc per side
3rd repeat: 207 dc per side
Row 26 (increase by 5 popcorns each repeat – I only counted popcorns in this row)
1st repeat: 16 popcorns per side
2nd repeat: 21 popcorns per side
3rd repeat: 26 popcorns per side